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Mišljenja o glavama za 1210


NShappy

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Mislim da smo ovde sa Kujom jednom raspravljali, pa je to ostalo potpuno nejasno: šta se dešava kada rezonanca padne ispod preporuÄenih cca 8-12 Hz? Koliko se sećam, ovaj momenat je potpuno nepoznat i ne pominje se preterano u savetima o ruÄicama i slaganju glava sa njima.

Možda je deo odgovora u umuljavljenosti zvuka?

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pokusaj guranja rezonatne frekvencije sa jednin denon 103/103r u taj extra nizak frekventni opseg je razumljiv (bezanja od nekog izdignutog basa koji se moze javiti na najnizim frekvencijama u nekim slucajevima),ali taj problem treba resiti sa amplifikacijom,zadrzati rezonantnu frekvenciju u preporucenom opsegu,i nema opsasnosti blizine rezonance transporta,koji ocito se vidi iz primera od strane @ninja,itekako zna da u&ere motku,kad se covek najmanje nada...

moja 2 centa..

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Any cartridge/tonearm combination will exhibit resonance at a specific frequency (or frequencies). This resonance is due to the interaction of the cartridge (acting as a spring), and the weight of the arm (acting as a mass). The "springiness" of the phono cartridge is described as compliance, the weight of the arm is specified in mass. As an example, a heavy weight on a light spring would obviously over-flex the spring, conversely, a light weight on a strong spring would not allow sufficient flexion.

At resonance, the arm/cartridge combination produces a dramatic rise in output. An increase of 3 to 6dB or more is common. This tremendous boost can cause severe problems if it occurs in the region of recorded music (above 2OHz), or in the area where record warps and rumble are problematic (below 5Hz). A cartridge/arm whose resonance occurs in the region above 2OHz can be influenced by music on the record. At this frequency a significant jump in output (resulting in a "bloated" or "tubby" sound) will be experienced. In extreme cases, the stylus may actually jump out of the groove. Similarly, a cartridge/arm combination that exhibits a resonance below the desired range will exaggerate the effects of record warps, or rumble produced by the turntable.

The goal in matching a specific cartridge and arm is to achieve a resonance in the 10 to 14Hz range. Some feel that limiting this range even further, to 9 to 11hZ, is best.

I've seen the following formula for calculating the resonant frequency of an arm/cartridge:

Resonant Frequency = 1000/[6.28*square root (M*C)]. Where M is the mass of the arm and cartridge and C is the compliance of the cartridge. As an example, if we had an arm/cartridge with a combined mass of 14g, and a cartridge with a compliance of 20, the resonant frequency would be 9.535.

This simple equation doesn't take into account all factors, including tonearm damping and, internal cartridge damping, but it will give you general idea of compatibility.

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Javicu se sa informacijama kad me prodje malo huja. :blush:

Pojed g. bez ikakve potrebe! :evil: ... kad se internet komentari uzmu zdravo za gotovi i vjreovanje da 103jka moze da podnese i 100L:ski ruksak na ledjima .... i to jos sa extra kesicama sa strane :nono

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Any cartridge/tonearm combination will exhibit resonance at a specific frequency (or frequencies). This resonance is due to the interaction of the cartridge (acting as a spring), and the weight of the arm (acting as a mass). The "springiness" of the phono cartridge is described as compliance, the weight of the arm is specified in mass. As an example, a heavy weight on a light spring would obviously over-flex the spring, conversely, a light weight on a strong spring would not allow sufficient flexion.

At resonance, the arm/cartridge combination produces a dramatic rise in output. An increase of 3 to 6dB or more is common. This tremendous boost can cause severe problems if it occurs in the region of recorded music (above 2OHz), or in the area where record warps and rumble are problematic (below 5Hz). A cartridge/arm whose resonance occurs in the region above 2OHz can be influenced by music on the record. At this frequency a significant jump in output (resulting in a "bloated" or "tubby" sound) will be experienced. In extreme cases, the stylus may actually jump out of the groove. Similarly, a cartridge/arm combination that exhibits a resonance below the desired range will exaggerate the effects of record warps, or rumble produced by the turntable.

The goal in matching a specific cartridge and arm is to achieve a resonance in the 10 to 14Hz range. Some feel that limiting this range even further, to 9 to 11hZ, is best.

I've seen the following formula for calculating the resonant frequency of an arm/cartridge:

Resonant Frequency = 1000/[6.28*square root (M*C)]. Where M is the mass of the arm and cartridge and C is the compliance of the cartridge. As an example, if we had an arm/cartridge with a combined mass of 14g, and a cartridge with a compliance of 20, the resonant frequency would be 9.535.

This simple equation doesn't take into account all factors, including tonearm damping and, internal cartridge damping, but it will give you general idea of compatibility.

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Da ne ulazimo u neku siru diskusiju, ok je.

savet (ako cete poslusati)

Da i tebi @paja 959 i @ninja kazem da na kraju OBAVEZNO proverite i ako treba namestite azimut jer se cesto desava kod Denona da polozaj glave nije u skladu sa polozajem igle

Posto predpostavljam da nemate azimuth checker onda druge najbolja metoda, ne racunam odokativni sa ogledalom jer ta bas nije precizna,

  1. Jedan je da unimerom na izlazu iz predpojacala merite napon ali kada pustite tast plocu sa test signalom koji je isti na oba kanala i onda podesite glavu okretanjem head schell-a levo ili desno.

  2. Druga metoda je ako imate kasetofon da namestite na kasetofonu vumetre test cd-om da levi i desni kanal budu identicni a onda pustite test plocu sa test signalom istim na oba kanala a kasetofon da stoji na REC pausa (kao da je spreman za snimanje sa ploce i tacno cete videti da li su levi i desni kanal iste jacine.

Da budu iste jacine je bitno iz vise razloga

  1. 1 stereo slika

  2. 2 dubina u prostoru zvucne slike

  3. 3 da se ne ostecuju ploce jer ce igla da jede jednu stranu brazde vise

Azimuth mora da se namesti , a ako vase rucke to nemaju onda ima metoda na netu kako to improvizovati ili kada se bude kupovala sledeca rucka gledati da ima i to podesavanje.

LOSE PODESEN AZIMUT DOSTA OSTECUJE PLOCE.

@ninji zelim da sto bolje skine plocicu a obojici da sto bolje nastelujete glave da bi vam uzitak bio sto veci

pozdrav

ps

sto manje opterecena oko rezne frekvencije a sto bolje podesiti glavu i rucku i eto nirvane

Sve ovo je samo moje skromno misljenje

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