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USB kablovi


trotter

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Vezano za ovo, na pitanje nekog audiofila na rme forumu, vezano za jitter, odgovor je bio jednostavan: nasi uredjaji imaju u sebi deo koji smanjuje jitter na zanemarljivu velicinu, i to je to, sto vi uopste razmisljate o tome :) .

 

Eto stvarno ima hardverskih resenja. Lepo je imati DAC koji ima AJC.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jitter#Anti-jitter_circuits

 

 

Anti-jitter circuits

Anti-jitter circuits (AJCs) are a class of electronic circuits designed to reduce the level of jitter in a regular pulse signal. AJCs operate by re-timing the output pulses so they align more closely to an idealised pulse signal. They are widely used in clock and data recovery circuits in digital communications, as well as for data sampling systems such as the analog-to-digital converter and digital-to-analog converter. Examples of anti-jitter circuits include phase-locked loop and delay-locked loop. Inside digital to analog converters jitter causes unwanted high-frequency distortions. In this case it can be suppressed with high fidelity clock signal usage.

 

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Nisam gledao klip do kraja, verovatno nas ubeÄ‘uje da meÄ‘u kablovima nema razlike, Å¡to nije taÄno - ima razlike. Iz mog malog iskustva, napabirÄenog po brojnim prezantacijama, taÄno je da bakarni sub-300-evra IC zvuÄe toplije, oni skuplji srebrni hladnije, ali ne znam koji mi se viÅ¡e sviÄ‘aju niti koje bih uzeo na poklon - razlike su toliko minorne da bih se na bilo koje navikao posle par minuta.

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Uglavno ismejava bizarni odnos cenu vs performanse audiofilskih tvikeraja. Ko sledi njegov blog zna da i on ceni kvalitet kablova narocito u merne instrumente.

 

Uvek kad u klinch uhvatis subjektiviste na kraju od "night and day differences" vredne hiljade i milione eura, stopi se argumentacija na to da su ipak bolji nego 0.00001$ kabl koji stize besplatan u kutiji i da su razlike male ali bitne kad slusas veoma veoma pazljivo. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pazi sta je inzinjer cika kure pronasao. U uputstvo za uporabu za moj DAC pise da proizvodjac preporucuje da se koristi USB kabl koji ima 24AWG umesto 28AWG precnik jer tako se reduciraju gubitci signala i ima manje dropouts. 

 

 

Identifying the Correct Cables Type

Most USB cables are labeled with two identification codes following the AWG (American Wire Gauge) standard:

  • The code ending with /2C (or X2C) shows the specification of the power wires in the USB cable (relevant for this test)
  • The code ending with /1P (or X1P) shows the specification of the data wires in the USB cable

The number at the beginning of the codes reflects the diameter of the internal wires:

  • AWG 24: 0,511 mm
  • AWG 28: 0,321 mm

Our tests have shown that you should always use USB cables carrying a /2C (or X2C) code beginning with 24 (e.g. 24/2C, 24AWGX2C, AWG 24X2C). As described above, this means the power wires have a diameter of 0,511 mm, which will reduce the power lost in the cable.

If your cable is showing a /2C (or X2C) code beginning with 28 (e.g. 28/2C, 28AWGX2C, AWG 28X2C), it is not suitable for use with our hardware devices and needs to be replaced.

Note: If your USB cable is not labeled with the 2C code, it may or may not be suitable for use with our hardware devices. Therefore we recommend to replace it with a cable showing the correct 2C code.

Examples

Below you can find two examples of USB cables with different /2C (or X2C) codes. Note that the /1P (or X1P) code is not relevant for this test. Ensure to always check the first two digits of the code ending with /2C (or X2C).

  • The following picture shows a cable labeled with the code 24/2C. This cable is suitable for use with your NI hardware device:
    KB2085_USBCableGood.png?1394812690
  • The following picture shows a cable labeled with the code 28AWGX2C. This cable is not suitable for use with your NI hardware device:
    KB2085_USBCableBad.png?1396444155

 

 

A pazi kod mene kabl sta je. 28 grrrrrrrr. Odoh ja u ducan.  :order

 

2llln47.png

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Nasao u ducanu (podrum) gomilu USB kablova, neki 28, neki 24 AWG i ustekao SONY-jev (OEM Hitachi) pa testiram dali je latencija opala. Jedini sonicni rezultat koji me zanima je da nema pucketanja ko da slusam ploce kad silujem komp u multitasking. 

 

A pazi postoje i neke chajna kombinacije od 24 i 28 AWG.

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Kad se vec prica o AWG (preseku), ovde sam negde nasao semu vezivanja/produzavanja USB kabla CAT5 kablom. Trebalo mi nekih 7-8 metara za kamericu (DIY nadzor sa terase, sa sve softverom ;) ); radilo isprve, jedino sto je CAT5 kabl malo krut/nezgrapan za smotavanje.

 

Pozzz

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Vrsio sam test i dobio zanimljiv rezultat. Sada koristim 1,5m Hitachi kabl do USB hub (sa sopstvenim napajanjem) i kad ubodem bluetooth dongle u hub, prepozna ga windows, ranije nije bio cak ni vidljiv. Dakle latencija sigurno je manja na deblji AWG.

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Dakle latencija sigurno je manja na deblji AWG.

 

To se sad opet vracamo na onu pricu o protokolima. Sa debljim kablom su gubici (u paketima) manji, i zato rade stvari koje pre nisu radile. Verovatno ima neki broj pokusaja (retry connection/ping), posle kojeg sistem odustaje... ili nesto slicno.

 

Pozz

 

P.S. Jedino, ostaje problem (pricam o DIY USB kablu) smetnji, valjda se zato i preporucuje CAT5 kabl (upletene parice itd.itd.)

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  • 3 weeks later...

33upfcx.jpg

 

 

 

Moram da priznam da u ove karaburgije nisam verovao,a da zlo bude vece otisao sam i dalje i maskirao i ground(skroz levo).pustio irArkana i voula radi sa kompom i bez ove dve konekcije.Sachekao sitne sate i kad sam chuo pauka u kutu kako pred spavanje pere noge pustio lagano muziku i ........... zaspao.

 

P.S Shalim se,mora se priznati posle dva sata slushanja ima razlike u zvuku,barem kod mene.Shum u intru "Speak to Me" sa albuma "Dark Side of the Moon" grupe Pink Floyd(MFSL CD) je finiji,manje naporan,jasniji su tishi detalji.I da ne davim dalje hvala Drugarima Strilu,Kajzu i Gosn Kuji za ovaj tvik.

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Doslo vreme i za linearno napajanje za moj USB hub preko koji je ustekan i napaja se Native Instruments TA2 audio interface. Pronasao u podrum svoj stari Commodore 64 koji ima eksterno linearno napajanje 5VDC i 1.7A. Made in Singapore, za moje potrebe sasvim dobar. 

 

Slike sa interneta. Moje nisam otvarao, samo merio izlaze dal ima dobrih stabilnih 5V.

 

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Nisam imao taj modul nazalost. Bio bi sretan da sam imao flopi umesto kasete al sta ces. U komsiluku nas troje komodorashi koristilo smo kasete pa da ne budem ja separatist. 

 

Za razliku od Atari, Nintendo, Sega i sl. Commodore nije bio samo za igrice. Prvi program za crtanje koji sam probao je bio Paint u Commodore 64 pa tek onda Paint u Windows 3.11 na PC 286 pojacan do 386. :D Evo danas od toga zivim kao graficki dizajner, samo ne koristim joystick za crtanje. Programiranje u Basic mi bilo dosadno pa nista od programersku karijeru.

 

C64_startup_animiert.gif

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  • 4 weeks later...

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