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Threshold NS 10 for dummies


pera451

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Da li mi se vise isplati da kod S****-a napravim 2 plocice umesto da sam ecujem? Ako pretpostavimo da su grubo oko 1 dm2 povrsine, to je oko 2 x 4 Evra + ostali troskovi. Mislim, dok ovde pokupujem sve hemikalije, mozda je ovo bolje. Ili je bolja G*************?

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Našao. :listen

Create PCBs with the "direct toner method"

A simple and fast method to create PCBs without the exposure step. Instead of photo-resist, toner of a laserprinter is used as etch-resist.

Material:

Laser printer (i use a HP laserjet 1010)

Iron

Copper coated fiberglass (FR4) board - without photo resist

Acetone

Etchand (e.g. "Natriumpersulfat" sodium sulfate ?)

1. Layout

The layout is printed with the laser printer on a page of a "Reichelt-Catalog (it's a german Distributor, the pages of some magazines also works well). If there are problems with paper-jam, use Scotch tape to stick the catalog side at the top of a page of typewriter paper.

The Layout should be mirrored (i.e. typo not readable).

2. Crop and align

Remove dust and fingerprints on the board with acetone. That is important, otherwise the toner will not retain.

Cut out the layout an put it with the printed side on the board. If neccessary, you can fix the layout with Scotch Tape.

3. Ironing

Put a linen cloth (i use an old purchase bag) on the board.

Iron the layout on the board with circling movements and light pressure.

Thereby the correct temperature is important. If it is too high, the toner becomes too liquid and the strip lines become blurred. If it is too low, the toner does not retain on the copper.

A setting between wool and silk works good for me.

4. Remove the paper

Wait until the board has cooled down. Put it in a plate with cold water and somewhat soap.

After some minutes you can carefully remove the paper by rubbing it. The toner should remain on the board. If not, you can remove the toner with Acetone an try it again.

5. Burn in (optional)

After removing the paper roughly, one can burn in the toner optionally. Set the Iron to the maximum and put the dry (!) board on it for a few minutes.

The toner becomes again liquid thereby. Thus smallest holes are closed and the toners connect themselves optimally with the copper.

6. Etching

Now the plate is put into the etching bath. I use an old bucket.

7. Finished

After etching, you only have to remove toner. This can be easilly done with acetone.

Imam joÅ¡ sliÄica ako vas zanima.

post-1437-128510605222_thumb.jpg

post-1437-128510605222_thumb.jpg

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Ne znam gde si do sad radio ali tamo gde ja radim nece da rade be z 10 kvadratnih dm ili poskupljuje cenu a sem toga i filmovi se posebno placaju. Od hemije ti treba za samogradnju sona kiselina i peroksid tj hidrogen i to imas u prvoj samoposluzi. ja nisam radio sa laserom jer sam se uvek plasio da ne ubacim pogresan papir i zalepim grejac, ali sam zato kod sitostampara nosio na kater i to lepo bude ako nisu jako tanki vodovi.

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taj metod je dobar prvenstveno zato sto je brz i sto uvek mozes da napravis plocice imajuci samo graficki fajl .......

naravno da je bolja profi napravljena plocica,narocito ako ti treba dvostrana ,sa metalizacijom itd .....

no - kad se naviknes da mozes imati male i slatke plocice na brzinu , onda ova metoda nema zamene ;

sona kiselina i hidrogen nisu skupi ; kupis 1L kis i par deci sto jaceg hidrogena i pravis plocicicicicice bar godinu dana

ajd probacu malo kasnije da proverim koja tacno plocica iz DiyA threada treba da se pravi ......

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Gle! Neće da uploaduje puf file.

Neko je (post 169.) pitao koja je konaÄna varijanta ploÄice:

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Gracias TONY!

I will give it a chance. The NS10 es un "clasico basico"!

And later I will try the pumpkin. Viva el DIY!

Some questions, please.

a.- Is the pcb layout on post #48 & #54 the final version?

b.- Is the component without legend at the right of the LF351 on the layout a simple bridge?

c.- What PSU will you recomend for NS10?

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Hi Mongo,

The PCB layout is on post 43 and 54 (pdf artwork) the schemo is shown on post 140.

Yes the component without designation is a Jumper.

The original NS10 has a single LM317 PSU regulator. You need to provide a low noise reg as minimum like the original.

Good luck with this project hermano it deserves at least a Tequila!!!

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I link:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=76557&perpage=25&pagenumber=7

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